Florence, my home for two weeks at the start of this year while I contemplated the book manuscript expected of me by November, has enough heritage to satisfy any traditionalist (and distract all but the most dedicated authors).

The centrepiece of the city is, of course, Brunelleschi's Duomo. I read Mary McCarthy's Stones of Florence (I have to admit, a much better book than I am writing, or indeed am likely to write) which suggests this magnificent structure gives the appearance of having been lowered down from the sky without much consideration for surrounding styles of architecture. The author has a point.

Nearby is the Basilica di San Lorenzo, an equally striking landmark, at least when viewed from the inside. Not far away, either, is the church of Santa Maria Novella, surely the most attractive site anywhere so close to a major rail terminus. Then to the east is the Santa Croce, while across the river is the Basilica di Santo Spirito, which is Brunelleschi again. And all this before you consider the myriad of other more intimate places of worship around the city.

So, much to admire. And there is also the Florentine sense of style, too. In the city, ahead of Spring, hats are worn without the inhibitions that can exist elsewhere in Europe. Gloves are a further popular seasonal accessory. Of course, this partly reflects that the region is well known for leatherwear. Be that as it may, a hat with matching gloves is a combination from which all men can benefit. As for ties, suits and coats, hats off to the men of Florence.

But shirts?

Firstly, you have to feel sorry for the men of Florence, compared with, say, citizens of London, or indeed Paris. They do not have their own Hilditch and Key shop offering a classic range of H&K shirts*.

Instead, they must make do with outlets where, rather than first, the shirt is perhaps the last item to which attention is turned.

Over a fortnight I don't recall sight of a single shop where shirts could be considered the primary concern of the retailer. Vest and underwear, yes. But shirts? No. And with so much of local culture able to boast rich tradition and history, sad to report that what shirts there were seemed to be as affected by the seasons as Nature herself. Collars and cuffs were seemingly victims of fashion's whims and consequently strangely at odds with a town otherwise steeped in a sense of herself.

You can never say you have seen everything of cultural and historic significance in Florence. The city has many gems, which are only unearthed by repeat visits.

Maybe, likewise, I missed a classic and bespoke shirt maker who would give me cause to revise my view that Florentine dress comes up short in this department.

Meantime, I am reassured to be back in London and within reach of Jermyn Street. As for the citizens of Florence, they at least have access, via the web, to H&K.

*H&K item - that is any H&K shirt - to wear in Florence, simply to illustrate to locals exactly what their wardrobes are missing.

Colin Cameron

Colin Cameron writes about lifestyle for a range of newspapers, including the Financial Times, and magazines. His next book, "You Bet", on the cultural, social and political impact of the explosion in Internet betting since 2000, will be published by Harper Collins in 2009.