Our Bespoke Process
With over 1,150 fabrics to choose from, we start the Bespoke service by asking our clients what their requirements are. This information is used to showcase fabrics of different qualities, whilst giving guidance of price for each.
Most of our fabrics are 2/100s yarn but we do offer finer fabrics (2/120s, 2/140s, 2/160s, 2/180s, 2/200s and 2/240s) which are woven into poplin, twill, oxford and zephyr.
Collars and cuffs
Once the fabrics have been selected, relevant collars and cuffs are suggested based on the pattern of the fabrics and personal preferences.
We then measure our clients whilst considering life style requirements and exercise regime. There are, on average, nineteen basic measures that we take. These are passed on to our in-house Master Bespoke Shirt Maker, David Gale, who, keeping with the ancient tradition, constructs a paper pattern by hand.
These are then digitised at the manufacturing facility into computer aided design (CAD) machine for cutting the fabrics. This faithfully copies the original paper pattern and allows for pattern manipulation. This in turn enables us to fully match our striped and checked fabrics at centres – front, back, sleeves, collars, cuffs and gauntlets.
A sample shirt is then constructed from one of the chosen fabrics and sent to the client. As the fabric used is 100% cotton, natural shrinkage occurs during washing. After three to four washes, the shirt will be at the correct fitting size. This is taken into consideration when the patterns are made.
If required, we then fine tune the shirt to the client’s satisfaction and once approved, the remaining shirts are completed. There are a minimum of four shirts for every client’s first order.